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Writer's pictureMagda Kirsch

Days 35 and 36: home

I decide in the middle of the night to take the 6:15 bus straight to Santiago. It has been raining since last night, and continued throughout the night. As I walk to the bus around 6 a.m. in the darkness, the rain intensifies and the clouds hang even lower. The weather forecast for today is bad, so it seems pointless to go to Fisterra to admire the scenery in such low clouds and heavy rain. The MONBUS line is packed with pilgrims, all with backpacks and walking sticks, but it's still dark, and everyone continues to sleep on the bus.


Around 8:30 a.m., I arrive at the bus station and walk back to the LOOP INN hotel, where I'll spend my last night in a four-person room. There was no other option, but I don’t mind. I quickly grab breakfast in the large dining area with two Spanish croissants because I can't enter my room yet. While I wait, I eat a simple breakfast of two delicious croissants from a nearby bakery; croissants are always enormous in Spain. Afterward, I begin writing my final blog.


Departure from Muxia. The MON-bus and Riley Blair


While writing, I meet Riley Blair, an Australian student who is taking a gap year after high school, spending three months traveling around Spain. She plans to study languages and art history at university. She coincidentally ended up on the Camino del Norte, where she has met interesting pilgrims. She intends to study both Spanish and German and combine that with art history. Her parents are, of course, worried because she’s traveling alone, but they closely follow her journey, much like how Magda keeps track of me. Around 1:30 p.m., I get my room key. It’s a four-person room with two bunk beds. I requested a bottom bunk because, at my age, I no longer enjoy climbing.


The tapestries inspired by Rubens


After that, I head into the city for the last time. Since it continues to rain, I decide to visit a few exhibitions. Currently, there are three on display, all under the overarching theme of Hospitalitas. The first exhibition is in the lower part of the cloister and features stunning tapestries inspired by Rubens (depicting the works of Hercules) and Teniers the Elder with genre scenes of common folk. There are also beautiful 15th- and 16th-century Flemish-Spanish sculptures, including one of Saint Anne with the Virgin and Child: an elderly Anne with Mary on her lap, holding the baby Jesus.

The second exhibition is in the crypt under the Portico de la Gloria and is about the crypt itself and the Codex Calixtinus, the oldest real travelogue to Santiago. The texts are projected onto the floor and reflective glass walls: captivating and engaging.


Sculptures of a pietá, Saint Anne with Virgin and Child . Codex Callixtinus


The third exhibition takes place in the cloister church of San Martin del Pinario and focuses on the church itself, as well as various aspects of how hospitals were set up, decorated, and used. The unique baroque altars and the enormous monastery benches are overwhelming, and beautiful angels guide you to the exit. It’s three hours of visual delight while the rain continues outside.

Afterward, I hurry back to my room. A second bed has already been made up, but the person using it only arrives after 2 a.m.—he went out partying! I make myself a simple omelet with cheese, ham, and tomato in the upstairs kitchen.


Interior of San Martin del Pinaria. Yves and Steven


When I return to the room, a third guest is sitting on the lower bunk of the second bed. He turns out to be from Ghent: Steven, 49, and a fire captain in Ghent. After twenty years as a partner in an architecture firm, he decided to change careers after a burnout. The fire department was looking for colleagues with architectural experience, and after some additional training (mainly in chemistry), he became a firefighter and quickly rose to captain. He cycled from Ghent to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port via the Via Turonensis (Paris, Tours, Bordeaux, etc.) and then across the Camino Francés (Roncesvalles, Pamplona, Burgos, León, etc.) to Santiago. He left on August 10 and arrived yesterday, having also visited Fisterra in the sunshine. He cycled much faster than I did!


When I ask him why a fire captain would undertake such a journey, he tells me that both of his daughters lost their partners in the last two years: Esther, the youngest, lost her American partner who suddenly collapsed, and Elise, the eldest, lost her partner in a small plane crash in February 2024. Two young lives and many dreams for the future were shattered. It was a difficult period for his daughters, for Steven himself, his wife, and their son Sieben (17). He wanted to find peace and put everything in perspective. He has been cycling for years, so he set off for Santiago. He too flies back to Charleroi tomorrow.


We share our stories and deeply understand how such loss changes a person and prompts reflection. He experiences a lot as a fire captain, but it's different when it affects your loved ones, and I understand that. On Monday, he will go back to work: one day of day duty, one day of night duty, and then two days off, and so on. He loves his job because he can help people almost every day. Perhaps next year he’ll walk the Camino, as a new challenge.

Traveling alone was difficult for him, but it did him good. Our wives will be waiting for us in Charleroi; for me, Ann, Moses, and Floris will be there too. We’re both happy to be going home. We’ll share a taxi to the airport, and at Charleroi, we’ll say our goodbyes. It’s always heartwarming to meet wonderful people.


Camino 2022 (Lemovicensis and Camino Francés) with Floris, Bruno, Moses, Leo, Ann, Sole and Magda who walked the last 220 km. Compostelana with Rientje Vicarie


'Pilgrimage’ or ‘Caminoing’ as therapy, whether on foot or by bicycle, is much more common than people think. Three years ago, it was my intention to cycle to Santiago as therapy for the loss of Rientje, and to raise money for the projects of the Rinus Pinifonds, which we established within the King Baudouin Foundation.


We would like to once again sincerely thank everyone who has supported us over the past three years, as well as the family of Tim and Yasmine. The support of friends was invaluable during this difficult period, and still is today. Special thanks to the KBS staff, Annemie and Remi, who have been helping and supporting us for three years. They manage the funds excellently, distribute them to the projects, and keep a watchful eye. A huge THANK YOU to family, friends, acquaintances, businesses, schools, and other supporters who have contributed to the fund, which now totals around 63,000 euros.


Thanks also to our advisory committee, chaired by Dr. Marc Vervenne, with Frederik, Tim, and Magda, for their time, cooperation, and support. And a special thanks to Yasmine, who has always supported us.‘


Camino 2023 with Floris en Bruno (Via Turonensis en Via Podiensis


Finally, I want to thank everyone who followed and supported my cycling pilgrimages, especially Bruno and Floris, who joined me on part of the journey, and Magda, Ann, Solé, Leo, and Moses, who walked alongside me to show that they will NEVER forget our Rientje. I also want to give a special THANK YOU to my dear Magda, who has read, corrected, and translated all of my blog posts into English over the past three years, and posted them online with my photos.


I also want to thank my guardian angel, Rientje, who has supported and protected me for three years. It was a comfort to know he was watching over me. Finally, I want to give a special thanks to Fietsen LUCIEN and Wouter Van den Berghe of the consultancy company TILKON, who made this cycling journey possible.


Camino 2024 (Via Tolosana en Camino del Norte) the last part with Bruno


Our goal was to cycle all four routes to Santiago in France and the two in Spain over three years: the Via Lemovicensis and Camino Francés in 2022, the Via Turonensis (via Tours) and Via Podiensis (via Le Puy-en-Velay) in 2023, and finally the Via Tolosana or Voie d’Arles and the Camino del Norte in 2024. With the support of many, we succeeded.

Once again, THANK YOU ALL. We’ll see what the future brings.


At the airport I was welcomed by Floris, Magda, Moses and Ann

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