The hostess at our accommodation, Isabelle, took great care of us. Last night, we joined the vegetarian meal (€14) that her husband prepared for the guests. It was quite good: first, a salad with various nuts and pieces of sheep cheese, followed by a thick vegetable soup with lots of chickpeas (about 75%, I think). For dessert, there was a kind of pudding. As drinks, we had water or red wine. At the table, there was an IT specialist (around 55) who develops websites, traveling with his 16-year-old son, walking from Avilés to Santiago together. There was also a lady who walks a portion of the Camino every year for two weeks, and then continues from where she left off the following year. I went to bed early, while Bruno worked until around 3 a.m.
’
The gîte. Little Pau and Bruno who is talking to the hostess
In the morning, a simple breakfast was ready with bread, jam, coffee, or tea, which was included in the price of the accommodation. As we left, each guest received a packed lunch with a sandwich of cheese and ham, a Spanish cookie, and an apple—a nice touch. Some other guests left at the same time as us, including Pau, an 8-year-old boy walking with his father, who was going to walk 22 km today. Walking the Camino is part of his healthy upbringing, apparently.
At around 8:45, we were on our bikes. We started on a paved country road that brought us back to the main road after about 5 km, and then it was a straight ride to Santiago, 75 km away. We decided to cycle as quickly as possible to arrive relatively early, so that Bruno could still work and rest before his flight back to London Gatwick. On the way, we passed the Sobrado Abbey, but I decided to skip it—one more or less won’t make much differen’s
A coffe stop for Bruno, the pilgrims and the landscape along the way
After a coffee stop (with two cortados and a large slice of tortilla for Bruno), we arrived at the Plaza de Obradoiro, in front of the majestic Santiago Cathedral. We followed the end of the Camino Francés, which brought us to the square via the Monastery of San Martín Pinario. Pilgrims of all colors, races, languages, and countries gathered here. They hugged each other, lay on the ground to rest or sleep, danced, and sang with joy at reaching their destination. Some were taking pictures, calling home, eating, drinking a glass of wine, or tending to their feet. We joined the crowd, celebrating with them.
The convent of San Martin Pinario, the convent of Santa Clara and the Plaza de Obradoiro
I gave Bruno a big hug, we shared a high five, and took some photos. A German couple from Berlin, Charlotte (an HR manager) and Nicolaas (a sales manager), asked us to take a picture for them, and they returned the favor. They had walked the Camino Primitivo, 290 km from Oviedo through the Picos de Europa. It was their first Camino, and they were “over the moon.” We were, too—reaching Santiago without any mishaps, technical problems, or flat tires is always a relief. I imagined Rientje was already sitting up on the right tower, where he had been two years ago. I asked him to watch over me for a few more days, as I still wanted to reach Muxía on the Atlantic coast.
Bruno, grandad and the German couple in front of the majestic Santiago cathedral
Afterward, we cycled to the LOOP INN hotel, where I could leave my bike for the company to ship home. By then, it was after 4 p.m. I did some quick shopping, and we ate in the room: some bread with Iberico ham and sheep cheese. I also brought Bruno two empanadas, small bread rolls filled with meat or fish. We cracked open a bottle of Verdejo white wine, which I had chilled in the sink using ice cubes I bought from a nearby DIA supermarket. While Bruno started working, I went out to collect a few more stamps for his pilgrim’s passport: from the Convent of Santa Clara (a contemporary and soul mate of St. Francis, founder of the Franciscans, 1182-1226), the Abbey of San Martín Pinario, the (very expensive) Parador Hospital de los Reyes Católicos, and the Church of San Francisco. I just made it in time to receive my fourth Compostella diploma, this time with “PRO VICARIE” on it, as I had walked in memory of Rientje.
Convento de Santa Clara, Hospital de los Reyes Católicos, Collegio San Xerónimo
Bruno joined me, and we went to the cathedral, where a Mass was being held. Afterward, we wandered through the sturdy old streets of the historic center, all made of basalt blocks, towards the Porta and Praza de Mazarelos, a working-class neighborhood. There, Bruno had some delicious pulpo, while I enjoyed Galician cheese croquettes with a 1906 beer—delicious. Next to us sat a couple of doctors, Angelica (a neurologist, 20 weeks pregnant, originally from Ecuador) and Dennis (a general practitioner from Ukraine). They had set off from Sarria and walked 115 km of the Camino Francés. Apparently, many Ecuadorians come to Santiago. They’ve been living in the U.S. for years and also know the research world, which was interesting for Bruno. He has offers to do research in Houston or New York after his PhD in Oxford.
After a long but fascinating day, we wandered through the small, empty alleys back to our hotel; it was already getting a bit cooler in the evening. Tomorrow, we plan to visit Santiago briefly, then dismantle Bruno’s bike and pack it in his bike bag, before he heads to the airport around 3:30 p.m. We’ll have lunch together before saying goodbye, which I’m already dreading. These were quality days we spent together. The day after tomorrow, I’ll head to Muxía on the coast, where I’ve never been. I called Magda for a quick chat since my phone had been dead… and then went to sleep. Bruno was already back at work.
Bruno and grandad in front of the cathedral
Comments