This morning, I was up before the sun appeared in the sky, as it has been rising a bit later each day lately. This gave me the opportunity to capture the sunrise, as well as the moments just before, as I did when leaving San Vicente de la Barquera. I followed the N-634 further in the direction of Oviedo. It was a gray morning without rain, making everything seem a bit gloomy and less attractive. The clouds clung to the hilltops, but not a drop of rain fell. I was almost entirely alone on the road, and I loved it. The Camino del Norte runs close by, parallel to the road, sometimes a bit higher or lower, with clear markings. Interestingly, there are signs indicating that pilgrims are between two routes: you often see both a scallop shell, which refers to the Way of St. James, and a cross, which indicates the route to Rome.
Sunrise in San Vicente de la Barquera. One of thr signs indicating that there are two pilgrim routes here
After about 25 kilometers of cycling, I had to turn left because I wanted to visit the small village of Colombres, where the Camino del Norte passes through. As I entered the village, I spoke to a lady named Maria Angeles, who immediately gave me a lot of information. Colombres was established thanks to locals who had made their fortune in America and wanted to make their hometown grand and prestigious. In the second half of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, many young Asturians were forced to emigrate to Latin America or the United States. Some became wealthy, others did not, but they never forgot their roots, and many dreamed of triumphantly returning to their homeland. Those who succeeded built small palaces and mansions upon their return from Havana, Mexico, Argentina, the United States, and other places, which are now known as "casas de indianos." They were called the "indianos." They used part of their fortune to build schools, streets, squares, and gardens, aiming to make their towns the most beautiful and esteemed in Asturias.
Colombres: Maria Angeles; a statue referring to the Foundation of Los Indianos; the church
They demonstrated their new status as nouveau riche but also contributed to the economic and social development of their towns by constructing schools, hospitals, cemeteries, and town halls. All these buildings are a testament to their efforts, adventures, fortunes, and great love for this part of Spain. I thanked Maria Angeles warmly for the valuable information. There is a trail through the town with information at each of these houses. In the photos, you can see some of the 14 houses that still exist and have been restored. The church is also 19th-century and was financed by the indianos.
Colombres: some beautiful houses and the town hall
From there, I cycled on to Llanes, almost continuously along the coast. The landscape changed somewhat; to my left, I could see the foothills of the Picos de Europa, a high mountain range running from north to south. You have to cross this mountain range if you follow the Camino Francés, at O Cebreiro, a legendary spot for every pilgrim. This small town lies in a valley, nestled between the foothills of the Picos de Europa and a rock formation that rises from the sea, protecting the town from the force of the incoming waves. A walking path has been created on top of this rock, and lower down, you can see the town with a harbor by the sea, part of the old walls, and the medieval town with the church.
The picos de Europa. Llanes: Church of Santa María del Conceyu and some beautiful houses
The small basilica of Santa María de la Asunción (or del Conceyu) is one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in Asturias. Construction began in 1240 and continued until the 14th or 15th century, thanks to the efforts of the inhabitants of Llanes. The church has two Romanesque facades, one on the west side and one on the south side, where a 16th-century portico protects the facade. The south side of the church is covered with purple flowers, thanks to the Bougainvilleas clinging to the wall. There were many people, but the atmosphere was pleasant. I went to the tourist office for a stamp on my credencial and asked if there was a bike shop nearby. "Certainly, on a street near the post office," they said. I cycled over and asked Firmin, the bike mechanic, to check the tire pressure. He added some air, as I was heavily loaded. Proudly, he showed me his shop, which even has a Belgian world champion jersey and photos of Remco Evenepoel and many others. He sells various brands, including Eddy Merckx bikes. A kind man who is happy to help a pilgrim for free. My day couldn’t have been better after meeting Maria Angeles in Colombres and Firmin in Llanes.
LLanes: the castle and Yves with Firmin. The coast near Llanes
It was now 12:30, and on my way to Cuerres (my final destination), I decided to take a break in Celorio, one of the many small villages with a beach crowded with bathers and tourists. Nevertheless, I found a small grassy nook behind the San Salvador monastery, which has a Romanesque corner tower with a 17th-century upper structure. Here, I enjoyed yet another sandwich—this time, of course, with Spanish Iberico ham, sheep’s cheese, and two Spanish tomatoes—while sipping a refreshing Mahou beer with 5.5% alcohol. After some rest, I continued cycling. Around 2:30 p.m., I arrived in the hamlet of Cuerres, which Magda had found. It’s cheaper than the accommodations in the larger towns because it’s remote and there’s nothing nearby: no bar, no shop... But that doesn’t bother me; I have everything I need with me. It will be a quiet evening: as usual, first writing the blog, then showering, calling Magda, and looking over the route for tomorrow to Gijón. The man who runs the small hotel is very kind and helpful. Yesterday, the owner was a real grouch and unfriendly; fortunately, you don’t encounter many like that.
Celorio: the beach and the San salvador monastery; Cuerres: my pension
Today, I saw pilgrims regularly, alone or in pairs, sometimes groups of young people on a trip with a youth organization. For Spaniards, completing a Camino, whether on foot or by bike, is truly in their blood. People often wish you a "Buen Camino" and give you a pat on the back. Just two more sleeps, and then I’ll be meeting Bruno at Asturias Airport, just outside Avilés. At the airport, we’ll first put his bike together. Then, we’ll cover the final 300 kilometers together in 4 or 5 days, giving us time to catch up and enjoy some nice dinners together in the evenings. So far, I haven’t eaten at a restaurant once because eating alone doesn’t appeal to me. With Bruno around, it will be a real experience—I know that from past trips. I’ll also be glad not to be alone all day anymore.
The rough coast near the Picos de Europa
Comments